Randy’s R2 10hp Drift Trike
How To Drift Trike Wheel and Tire Guide
Welcome to Trike Daddy Customs How To Drift Trike Wheel and Tire Guide. Everyone asks me about what Rim and Tire combinations work with 10″ PVC. So I decided to post a Trike Daddy Customs How To Drift Trike Wheel and Tire Guide to help the do it yourselfer with choosing the correct rim and tire for their Drift Trike. Lets face it, there’s nothing more frustrating than buying some expensive rims and tires for your drift trike build only to find out that the PVC doesn’t fit properly or is a pain in the ass to mount on the tires. I’m going to try and make this as easy to understand as possible for everyone and cover a few things without nerding it out too much so here goes.
Alright so start this Trike Daddy Customs How To Drift Trike Wheel and Tire Guide with how to read the tire measurements. This is crucial in determining what the measurements of the tire are. Example: 11×6-6; 11 identifies the tires diameter. 6 identifies the tires tread width and the last 6 identifies what diameter rim the tire is intended for.
Now these numbers can vary few mm’s depending on the tire manufacturer’s tolerances during production but the numbers as a rule are pretty close. Now things can get tricky so pay attention. You may run across a tire measurement that reads 4.5/10.0-5; This measurement shows the tread width first followed by the diameter then the rim size it fits on. Typically the last number is always the rim diameter.
Next thing I need to talk about is how a rims width will determine how easily your PVC will mount on your tire. Let’s say you purchase a new set of Drift Trike tires and rims from a website that deals in DIY trike parts/kits. Typically what you’ll see is a kit that uses a tire with the same width as the rim.
This usually isn’t a big deal to a kart racer but in the world of drift trikes this can be a huge problem and here’s why. If the tire is, let’s say 11-6-6. The tire diameter is 11″ and the width is 6″. The inside diameter of 10″ PVC is a little under 10″ so trying to squeeze 11″ into 10″ doesn’t work so well as many people come to find out the hard way.
How To Drift Trike Wheel and Tire Guide Cont.
The obvious solution here is to somehow reduce the outside diameter of the tire to 10″ or less. The first thought people usually have is look for a smaller tire…….. Well that will do the trick but it’s often easier and cheaper to just purchase or choose a wider rim to go with that tire. So now your next question is probably going to be; What rim size do I need to go with the 11-6-6 tire so it fits my PVC? Great question! If you can understand simple physics then you’ll be able to wrap your brain around this pretty easily. If I have a tire that is 11″ in diameter, I need to reduce it’s diameter somehow to 10″. The trick to this is a simple one but often overlooked. Use a rim that is 1.5″ to 3″ wider than the tires width. For example; 11×7.10-6 tire needs an 9.5″ or even a 10″ wide rim. My rule of thumb is this. The larger the tires diameter, the wider the rim needs to be in order to reduce it’s Outside diameter.
Make sense!? Crazy how that works.
How To Drift Trike Wheel and Tire Guide Quick Reference Guide
So here’s some common Rim and Tire combos that I’ve used that work well together.
11-6-6 / 6×9.5″
10.5-6.5-6 / 6×9 to 9.5″
10-6-6 / 6×6,7,8″
10-5-5 / 4.5″ or 5″
I hope this sheds some light on the subject of rim and tire fitment on your Drift Trike. Be sure to check out the next How to on mounting and stretching a kart tire safely. Until then Get your Slide Right and slide safe. Thank you reading the Trike Daddy Customs How To Drift Trike Wheel and Tire Guide. Be sure to check out www.BMIkarts.com for all your karting and Drift Trike parts/kits.
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Look at this bad mother! This is the Dirty Daddy Bagger. This build was a collaboration build between Trike Daddy Customs and Dirty South Drifters. Dirty South Drifters was the first trike builders to make fenders for a drift trike. It all started when Dirty South contacted us about a one off build for a well known motorcycle builder. They wanted our sexy lines combined with their smooth body lines. Of course we said Hell yes!
We started the Dirty Daddy Bagger with a Trike Daddy Customs R1 (26″) frame, adding in some subtle details like the steel spikes on the foot pegs. We custom built a unique set of forks the build as well, using a triple tree style fork for a beefy industrial look. Once the frame and forks were complete it was time to get everything off to Dirty South for a some powdercoating, paint, and final assembly. They took the frame and custom built fiberglass molds for the rear fenders, front fender, and fairing assembly. After the resign dried it was time for paint. They had a local paint shop do up the silver metallic, black n red theme.
The time for finally assembly was near once all the parts came back to the shop. There was some prep work that needed to be done prior to assembly, the chrome front wheel needed to be hand laced and trued and the rear disc brake assembly needed to be pre-assembled using some custom fitted components specific to Trike Daddy Customs. Once the pre-assembly was complete it was finally time for the final assembly of this beast. Starting with the 26″ frame, we added the fork assembly, hydraulic front brake assembly, and the monster custom laced chrome front wheel. After that the basic components were installed followed by the front fender, rear fenders, and finally the front fairing assembly.
Last thing to mount up was the beast of a power-plant. We used a built 10hp clone motor that was dynoed to 10hp and 10lbs of torque. As you can see from the pictures and the test video, the lines are sexy, the paint is gleaming, and the sound is amazing.
We enjoyed the shit out of this build and hope to do many others in the future. Many will try to duplicate the Dirty Daddy Bagger but only Trike Daddy Customs and Dirty South Drifters can make them sexy! Please take a peek at our other builds and our youtube channel for more videos and custom projects. Get Your Slide Right Today. Shop now.
The Dirty Daddy Bagger Pics
Larry’s Trike. This was a fun and challenging build. This is the 4th 10hp E-start build that we’ve done, each one gets a little easier but still takes some time to accomplish for everything to come together.
The R2 chassis was sent to Area 51 for powdercoating, this color is called Illusion Royal Blue, it’s like a deep candy blue with a slight purple hue in the right light.
Once back from powdercoating we started the engine teardown and build up with a 6.5hp clone e-start engine. We replaced and upgraded several parts to squeeze out the hp. The challenging part is relocating the start box from the side of the engine to under the seat so the rider can start the trike from a seated position. It was also important to be able to turn the LED headlight on and off from the same panel.
After extending all the wires and rewiring the switchbox to incorporate the headlight, a custom mount had to be fabricated in order for the box to sit securely under the seat. After the wiring was routed and tucked away the next challenge was fitting the battery. There’s not a ton of room on the trike to add a huge battery. I had to search a bit to find something suitable like a motorcycle battery or a scooter battery.
Larry’s Trike Cont.
Next was hand fabricating a battery box from aluminum diamond plate and securing the assembly to the frame. I found a nice little spot behind the seat. Now everything is neat and clean and still accessible if need be. Next took the Illusion Royal Blue rim and hand laced yellow stainless steel spokes to a disc ready hub. The yellow script style decals and the yellow spokes really pop against the blue.
This beast is crazy fast with it’s built 10hp engine and electric start capabilities. Thank you for checking out our blog; Larry’s Trike. Please share the build on FB if you like and check out our Other social media pages listed below.
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Larry’s Trike Pics
Mean Machine is the word for this sexy ass Black Beauty R2. It wasn’t actually a customer build. I had some copper parts from another build left over and I decided to put them on a jet black canvass. Starting with an R2 20″ frame and fork, we called upon the experts over at Area 51 again and had them coat the frame and forks with their finest black powder. Once the parts came back we started the assembly process. First thing we had to do was grab some Brasso and start polishing up the front wheel hub, Handlebar stem, and the pillow-block housings. This removed the oxidation and added a nice protected surface to the parts so they don’t oxidize as fast. We then hand laced the copper hub into the 20″ double wall rim with stainless steel spokes.
We then fitted the forks and front wheel assembly onto the chassis and began the remainder of the assembly taking special care not to touch the copper plated parts. The engine was next. We took the standard 6.5hp clone block and upgraded the parts to produce 10hp. We debated about copper plating the exhaust pipe but the heat would have destroyed the finish. So we opted out on that idea. Once the engine was mounted and the running gear was fitted up the trike was ready for the photo shoot so we could find a buyer.
Black Beauty R2 Cont.
Within 48hrs of posting the pics she sold to a previous customer of ours and is now in their possession. We decided against doing any flashy decals. We thought it would have taken away from the clean look of the black and copper color scheme. Thank you for reading about the Black Beauty R2 . Don’t forget to check out our other projects and come back often. We are going to be adding more custom builds to the website. If you are interested in Getting Your Slide Right, click the link below and get started.
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Black Beauty R2 Pics
This is one cool ass trike for an awesome company. Say hello to the Happy Stitches Embroidery R1. We were contacted by the owner of Happy Stitches Embroidery asking us if we were in the market for some promotional items like ball cap’s and T-shirts. After we got to talking we decided that a trade was in order to promote both business’s. From there the fun began on the Happy Stitches Embroidery R1.
We began with the biggest frame we had, the R1 (26″) model. Happy Stitches wanted something sexy and cool, something that didn’t detract from their products but got the attention of future customers. We both decided on the Illusion Royal Blue with yellow accents. I new I’d have to do something special for this build so rather than just slapping the same old logos on the trike I decided to do a custom layered vinyl of their logo. If anyone has ever tried their hand at a layered vinyl logo you know that it isn’t easy to do. Every color in their logo is a different layer of vinyl. The layers give the logo a 3D look which is what I was going for. It took about 3 attempts to get it right but I got it!
<h2>Happy Stitches Embroidery R1 Cont.</h2>
For the assembly I took a 26″ double wall rim and hand laced the bright yellow stainless steel spokes into it. I took special care not to destroy the logo work on the rim. After that it was the usual 3 hours of assembly time fitting all the parts and remaining decals before picture time. I wanted to do something different with the photos on this one. I first found an abandoned Marine Corps supply bunker and snapped a few photos at sunset.
As I was wondering around base I came across this industrial plant that was shooting white plumes of steam out it’s stacks. That was it! Right across the road was a water puddle about 2″ deep. As you can see from the pictures it was the perfect backdrop for the photo shoot.
Happy Stitches Embroidery is very happy with their product and we are very happy with our ball cap’s and T-shirts. Super fun build for a great company, can’t wait to do business with them again. Thank you for checking out the Happy Stitches Embroidery Build. Don’t forget to check out the other builds/projects and videos we have posted.
<h2>Happy Stitches Embroidery R1 Pics</h2>
Say hello to Project Lil Red! This beautiful creature was supposed to be a customer build but things didn’t work out with him getting his testicles back from his wife. Unfortunate soul….. The good news is this pretty beast found a good home and is ridden almost daily. She sports a deep Red powdercoating with black accents and a beastly 10hp powerplant.
This R2 started with a 20″ frame and fork, both were sent to Area 51 powdercoating for their amazing skills at shooting powder. Their process is a unique one that caught my attention pretty quickly. They actually sandblast their parts, followed up by a primer base coast, then apply the final color coat and a clear. This process leaves a durable and thick finish that looks AMAZING! Next came the front end and just like all our front ends, we hand built this one using a double wall aluminum rim and stainless steel spokes. We fabricated our own beefy forks as well since Chinese forks are garbage lol. For the engine we used a clone block and added some hop up goodies from our friends over at BMkarting.com. This 10hp beast is loud and proud rolling through the neighborhood.
<h2>Project Lil Red Build Cont.</h2>
The new owner is very happy with the build and will continue to enjoy it for years to come. All our products and Made in America for Americans by Americans. Every frame and fork assembly is 100% warrantied. Thank you for stopping by to check out project lil Red! Check back often as we will be adding builds weekly.
<h2>Project Lil Red Build Pics</h2>
Check this beauty out! This is the USMC R2 Drift Trike Build. #SFMF! This is my absolute favorite build. This beast screams DEVIL DOG! OD green and Black are my favorite colors and if you are a veteran or are friends with any veterans they’ll most likely say the same thing. Alright, lets get to the specifics on the USMC R2 Drift Trike Build. The 20″ R2 frame, forks, front rim, and handle bars were sent straight to Area 51 powdercoating for their 5 star treatment. They sandblasted all the parts, then applied a base primer, and then the final color coat in OD (Olive Drab) green. They also coated the Bearing housing in flat black to match the theme of the trike.
Once all the parts returned from Area 51 we got to work on lacing up the front wheel after applying the subdued American flag and “Trike Daddy Customs” decals. We then started the 10hp engine build up using a 6.5hp clone block and adding the go fast parts to make her scream at speeds of up to 45mph. Once the engine was mounted and the front end was installed it was time to applying the decals. We decided to use a military stamped style of font, the same font you will see on all military vehicles. In addition to the standard decals I went a little #moto and put several EGA’s (Eagle Globe and Anchor) emblems all over the trike frame.
I also added a few WWII and Vietnam acronyms that are commonly used even in today’s military. Among them you’ll see BOHICA (Bend Over Here It Comes Again), SNAFU (Situation Normal All Fucked Up), FUBAR (Fucked Up Beyond All Recognition), and POW-MIA. You’ll even see a couple hashtags in there like #SFMF.
<h2>USMC R2 Drift Trike Build Cont.</h2>
Another small detail you might notice is that I blacked out the axle and exhaust pipe. The axle was easy to do, just grabbed some sports tap and evenly applied it to the axle after it was installed. The exhaust pipe is another story tho. That took some high temp paint and a slow bake process to get the right look. In the photos I used black electrical tape as a temporary solution just to take the photos but I later removed that pipe and sprayed it with high temp coating. The USMC R2 Drift Trike Build is nothing short of sexy and mean. Low to the ground, fast as hell, mean and green was the look I was going for. I’d say we nailed it!
<h2>USMC R2 Drift Trike Build Pics</h2>